The first thing you realise about sand yachting is how extremely easy it is – pull in one rope and you’re off, skimming across the beach, inches above the sand, at a serious lick. The next thing you realise is how dangerous it can be if you don’t know what you are doing.Hitting speeds in excess of 20mph is common even in a light breeze, and stopping or controlling your three-wheeled buggy is not as simple as getting it going. And it is so tempting to let it rip. Charging across a deserted beach in Normandy at low tide, with acres of space stretching out in front of you, is a delight.
A few basic instructions from Lionel, the owner of Eolia Normandie, and we were confidently careering across the sand. A basic knowledge of sailing probably made me feel more gung-ho than was advisable. My landlubber 13-year-old daughter had no problems getting to grips with the necessary techniques and she quickly got the idea of letting the sail out when it all got a bit too hairy.What did seem a bit strange was having so much fun and laughing so much, given our location. For this was Omaha Beach, where 63 years ago the US 1st and 29th Infantry hit a wall of enemy fire as they waded through the surf at 6.30am – nearly 1,000 men died before midday.A hour before we took to the sand yachts, we had been clambering over the extensive remains of the German defensive positions. The children thought it a great adventure. My wife and I had a more sombre take on it. In the dazzling June sunshine it was hard to forget that not everyone’s first visit to Normandy had been as welcoming as ours. A sole red poppy on the corner of the dunes was particularly poignant.But we were here for a fun family holiday, and fun it had been. Too often Normandy is overlooked, but for a family wanting lots of variety to keep everyone from toddlers to teenagers happy, this is a smart destination.In the first place, it is an easy hop across the Channel. Portsmouth to Caen is six hours of Zen-like relaxation compared to the three hours of hell that awaits anyone brave enough venture into the horror of Gatwick Airport. And once on dry land, most places of interest are only a short drive away. We stayed in the far east of Normandy, and even getting over to Omaha in the far west was an easy 90-minute drive.Secondly, Normandy is full of contrasts. Steep, craggy ravines in what is known as Swiss Normandy are perfect for climbing, para-gliding, mountain biking or canoeing. Wide, wild beaches along the coast give way to sophisticated tourist ports such as Honfleur, bursting with excellent restaurants and chi chi charm. This is the place for all tastes – a crucial factor when trying to stop your children re-enacting the Second World War a bit too realistically.Running through the middle of Swiss Normandy is the River Orne, ideal for family canoeing. On the stretch between Clécy and Thury-Harcourt none of the rapids score higher than Grade One on the accepted international classification – the lowest grade, but still capable of delivering a few thrills. The five-hour paddle makes for an idyllic day. The Kayak Club drive you from Thury-Harcourt down to Clécy in a minibus and even the most inexperienced canoeist (all they insist on is that you can swim) can give it a go as you meander downstream back to base. In summer, when there has been little rain, it is an extremely gentle paddle most of the way, with a couple of sets of rapids to keep you awake. The guides know the best places to picnic and after lunch you can let the current take the strain as you sit back and enjoy the views. The area is also great for walking and biking, with a host of trails to suit all levels of skill. The tourist board is happy to arrange your itinerary, whether you fancy a day on the water followed by a lesson in para-gliding, or even a few days’ trekking with a donkey laid on to take your bags.Another big plus about Normandy is the wide variety of accommodation. You can camp, stay in a good B&B, revel in a pukka hotel or even – as we discovered – go on safari. The highly respected Cerza wildlife park, near Lisieux, that specializes in breeding endangered species, has just opened 26 self-catering lodges in its extensive and quite beautiful grounds. These tastefully decorated wooden bungalows are raised on stilts and are dotted around a couple of lakes populated with siamang gibbons and rare Indian rhinos. Not only can you go on safari without the guilt of flying halfway round the world, but you are also contributing to a serious effort to protect animals at risk. The whole park is run on low-impact, green principles and is a joy for children. When you walk out of your lodge in the morning you are confronted by dozens of Bennett’s wallabies that are allowed to wander freely in the grounds. You can happily spend a day exploring the 120 acres of the park that are home to 95 different species. The educational element is thorough but low-key enough not to put off the children. My 11-year-old son still hasn’t recovered from the magic of sleeping a few yards from the extremely funky gibbons (they chased each other around their island haven swinging from tree to tree, or dangled effortlessly upside-down, chilling out).In between all the fun and action you can handle, it is worth checking out a few of the more staid activities on offer. Don’t miss the Bayeux tapestry. The oldest comic strip in the world is one of the best – an exciting, dramatic narrative that would capture the imagination of the most jaded of teenagers. William the Conqueror’s birthplace in the castle of Falaise has been turned into a radical, multi-media exhibition that has given heart attacks to a few conservation conservatives but delighted countless others. Honfleur is a joy itself, with its pretty harbour surrounded by medieval high-rises, but its museum honouring composer Erik Satie is an unmissable, eccentric wonder. Your mirth and unbridled pleasure in its madness is made only more extreme by the dour nature of the door staff.