Peak retreat
My first night in a mountain refuge wasn’t a success. Without my essentials for a good night’s sleep – total silence, a firm mattress and two pillows – sleep seemed unlikely. Squashed sardine-like between (not-so) gently snoring fellow walkers, my fears proved founded. I didn’t sleep a wink. Since then I’ve learned to carry industrial-strength earplugs and a sleep sheet. Fortunately, comfort levels in mountain huts have moved on. More and more refuges are swapping scratchy blankets for soft duvets and offering separate bedrooms along with the communal dorms. Purists argue that such luxuries are against the spirit of mountain adventure. Well, let them. I’m all for waking brighter-eyed in the morning all the better prepared to enjoy the full wonder of these high-altitude retreats.
Staying overnight in a mountain hut is an adventure and an easy way to maximise time on the hill. Five o’clock is the typical wake-up call, giving you a headstart on the day and a front-row seat for sunrise. Europe’s Alps are dotted with refuges in prime locations and most of them are open to overnight guests during the summer. The June to September period, the peak time for walking and hiking, is when alpine meadows are at their most beautiful and alpine weather is at its most dependable – though beware of the afternoon thunderstorm and prepare for as many as four seasons in one day.
Walking offers a different perspective on the mountains, one that is often missed when whizzing downhill on skis during the winter. Moving at a more leisurely place allows time to take in the majesty of the jagged peaks and spot flora and fauna. From lowland strolls through flower-filled meadows humming with insects, to high altitude treks across rocky scree slopes, there is something for every age and level of fitness. The beauty of walking is its accessibility. A low-impact activity, it demands only as much energy as you’re prepared to give, a bit of common sense and the ability to read a map. Throw in some time at a refuge, whether for a hearty lunch or an overnight stop, and there isn’t a more complete mountain experience or a better way to ‘get away from it all’.
First steps in Morzine
Walking in the Alps doesn’t need to involve any ‘up’. The mountain resort of Morzine is a family-friendly base with plenty of gentle strolls through pretty forests and along the banks of the River Dranse, such as the ‘Sentier de Renard’. A cross-country ski track in the winter, this easy pathway runs through alpine meadows – perfect for a picnic in the sunshine – past the Cascade de Nyon to the beautiful Lac de Mines d’Or. If you don’t want to carry food you can lunch at the nearby Les Mines d’Or hotel-refuge (only open during the summer months). The Portes du Soleil is also a great area for walking ‘lite’ if your little ones won’t be persuaded to walk uphill. Take advantage of the network of lifts running from the resort to reach higher altitudes without the effort of an uphill climb. The rewarding views of Mont Blanc and the Dents du Midi offer a taste of high mountain adventure from a safe distance.
Hut virgin? Head to Verbier
The Cabane du Mont Fort above the mountain resort of Verbier is the perfect refuge for first-timers. In hut terms, the Cabane is a five-star hotel. Originally built in 1925 (and since modernised), guests sleep in bedrooms for two, four or six people, there is running water, and the excellent lunchtime menu attracts a solid queue. The more energetic can walk to the Cabane from Verbier itself, though taking the gondola from the village cuts the hike down to one hour. Rise early the next day to enjoy a good breakfast before setting off along the ‘Sentier des Chamois’, a six-hour hike down to the village of Fionnay. This narrow, and in places exposed, path passes through rocky terrain into the Haut Val de Bagnes nature reserve and over the Cols Termin and Louvie, with spectacular views of the Grand Combin peak. Nature-lovers will enjoy the chance to get closer to ibex, marmots and birds of prey as well as chamois. Hut enthusiasts can spend an extra night on the hill at the Cabane Louvie before descending to Fionnay.
Hut-to-hut hiking in the Austrian Tyrol
Kitzbühel in Austria’s Tyrol is the ideal starting point for a variety of multi-day walks. While the Western Alps are better known for hut-to-hut treks – such as the Tour du Mont Blanc and the Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route – the Kitzbühler Alps offer both lowland and high-altitude hiking and a range of mountain hut experiences between 800 and 3,797 metres. Head to Stuhlfelden, a neighbouring hamlet to Mittersill and a 30-minutes drive from Kitzbühel, to join the walkway known as the Pinzgauer Spazierweg. This tree-lined ridge walk runs west to east over the Kitzbühler Alps, ending at the Schmittenhöhe mountain peak above the small town of Zell am See. With spectacular views of the rugged peaks of the Hohe Tauern mountain range (part of Europe’s largest national park) and the Salzachtal valley below, it is one of the Eastern Alps finest walking routes. The first overnight stop is the Bürgl Hütte at 1,700 metres, reached by a four hour walk up from Stuhlfelden. Many day hikes start from the Bürgl Hütte – such as the six hour round-trip to the Manlitzkogel peak and the ascent of the Gaisstein, Europe’s highest grass covered summit – so it’s worth spending a couple of nights here before attempting the long walk to Schmittenhöhe. There are five refuges along the Spazierweg
Staying there
Morzine
Les Mines d’Or, call +33 (0) 450 790360
Verbier
Cabane Mont Fort, call +41 (0) 27 778 1384
Cabane Louvie, call +41 (0) 27 778 1740
Kitzbühel
Bürgl Hütte, call +43 (0) 6639 168034
Pinzgauer Hütte, call +43 (0) 6549 7861
Activities
Mountain huts are open June to September for overnight guests. Always phone ahead to book – and let them know if you change your plans. Most huts offer discounted rates to Alpine Club members.
Wear sturdy shoes and carry extra layers, food, drink, a map, compass and first-aid kit when walking in the mountains.
Family
Check with individual huts if they have family facilities
More info
For more info on staying and walking in Morzine, visit www.morzine.com. For Verbier tourism, see www.verbier.ch. For more info on Kitzbühel, see www.kitzbuehel.com
Staying overnight in a mountain hut is an adventure and an easy way to maximise time on the hill. Five o’clock is the typical wake-up call, giving you a headstart on the day and a front-row seat for sunrise. Europe’s Alps are dotted with refuges in prime locations and most of them are open to overnight guests during the summer. The June to September period, the peak time for walking and hiking, is when alpine meadows are at their most beautiful and alpine weather is at its most dependable – though beware of the afternoon thunderstorm and prepare for as many as four seasons in one day.
Walking offers a different perspective on the mountains, one that is often missed when whizzing downhill on skis during the winter. Moving at a more leisurely place allows time to take in the majesty of the jagged peaks and spot flora and fauna. From lowland strolls through flower-filled meadows humming with insects, to high altitude treks across rocky scree slopes, there is something for every age and level of fitness. The beauty of walking is its accessibility. A low-impact activity, it demands only as much energy as you’re prepared to give, a bit of common sense and the ability to read a map. Throw in some time at a refuge, whether for a hearty lunch or an overnight stop, and there isn’t a more complete mountain experience or a better way to ‘get away from it all’.
First steps in Morzine
Walking in the Alps doesn’t need to involve any ‘up’. The mountain resort of Morzine is a family-friendly base with plenty of gentle strolls through pretty forests and along the banks of the River Dranse, such as the ‘Sentier de Renard’. A cross-country ski track in the winter, this easy pathway runs through alpine meadows – perfect for a picnic in the sunshine – past the Cascade de Nyon to the beautiful Lac de Mines d’Or. If you don’t want to carry food you can lunch at the nearby Les Mines d’Or hotel-refuge (only open during the summer months). The Portes du Soleil is also a great area for walking ‘lite’ if your little ones won’t be persuaded to walk uphill. Take advantage of the network of lifts running from the resort to reach higher altitudes without the effort of an uphill climb. The rewarding views of Mont Blanc and the Dents du Midi offer a taste of high mountain adventure from a safe distance.
Hut virgin? Head to Verbier
The Cabane du Mont Fort above the mountain resort of Verbier is the perfect refuge for first-timers. In hut terms, the Cabane is a five-star hotel. Originally built in 1925 (and since modernised), guests sleep in bedrooms for two, four or six people, there is running water, and the excellent lunchtime menu attracts a solid queue. The more energetic can walk to the Cabane from Verbier itself, though taking the gondola from the village cuts the hike down to one hour. Rise early the next day to enjoy a good breakfast before setting off along the ‘Sentier des Chamois’, a six-hour hike down to the village of Fionnay. This narrow, and in places exposed, path passes through rocky terrain into the Haut Val de Bagnes nature reserve and over the Cols Termin and Louvie, with spectacular views of the Grand Combin peak. Nature-lovers will enjoy the chance to get closer to ibex, marmots and birds of prey as well as chamois. Hut enthusiasts can spend an extra night on the hill at the Cabane Louvie before descending to Fionnay.
Hut-to-hut hiking in the Austrian Tyrol
Kitzbühel in Austria’s Tyrol is the ideal starting point for a variety of multi-day walks. While the Western Alps are better known for hut-to-hut treks – such as the Tour du Mont Blanc and the Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route – the Kitzbühler Alps offer both lowland and high-altitude hiking and a range of mountain hut experiences between 800 and 3,797 metres. Head to Stuhlfelden, a neighbouring hamlet to Mittersill and a 30-minutes drive from Kitzbühel, to join the walkway known as the Pinzgauer Spazierweg. This tree-lined ridge walk runs west to east over the Kitzbühler Alps, ending at the Schmittenhöhe mountain peak above the small town of Zell am See. With spectacular views of the rugged peaks of the Hohe Tauern mountain range (part of Europe’s largest national park) and the Salzachtal valley below, it is one of the Eastern Alps finest walking routes. The first overnight stop is the Bürgl Hütte at 1,700 metres, reached by a four hour walk up from Stuhlfelden. Many day hikes start from the Bürgl Hütte – such as the six hour round-trip to the Manlitzkogel peak and the ascent of the Gaisstein, Europe’s highest grass covered summit – so it’s worth spending a couple of nights here before attempting the long walk to Schmittenhöhe. There are five refuges along the Spazierweg
Staying there
Morzine
Les Mines d’Or, call +33 (0) 450 790360
Verbier
Cabane Mont Fort, call +41 (0) 27 778 1384
Cabane Louvie, call +41 (0) 27 778 1740
Kitzbühel
Bürgl Hütte, call +43 (0) 6639 168034
Pinzgauer Hütte, call +43 (0) 6549 7861
Activities
Mountain huts are open June to September for overnight guests. Always phone ahead to book – and let them know if you change your plans. Most huts offer discounted rates to Alpine Club members.
Wear sturdy shoes and carry extra layers, food, drink, a map, compass and first-aid kit when walking in the mountains.
Family
Check with individual huts if they have family facilities
More info
For more info on staying and walking in Morzine, visit www.morzine.com. For Verbier tourism, see www.verbier.ch. For more info on Kitzbühel, see www.kitzbuehel.com
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