Top of the Mountain
At 7.00 am on a Saturday last July, I had a taste of heaven. Everything was white and silent around me, and a huge wave of happiness and achievement was washing over my body – or maybe this was just the side-effect of the cold and lack of oxygen. I was standing up at 4,808 metres, on the top of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in western Europe. However, as everybody knows, the way to heaven is a long and tortuous path. It all started around a bottle of wine, back in February. After one of our regular indoor rock-climbing sessions at The Castle in North London, my partner, two friends and I decided that this year we would climb Mont Blanc. We had already been talking about it for a while, so we said, ‘Yes, let’s do it now!’
None of us was very experienced, so we all agreed to hire a guide. When we booked the climb with Kailash, a company based in Chamonix, France, one of its staff advised us on how to train efficiently for the ascent. During the last 10 weeks before the climb, the gym became my second home. I did as much cardiovascular exercise as possible, including running, cycling, kick-boxing, spinning and aerobics classes. Most weekends, we went mountain biking in the Surrey hills.By early July, the four of us were feeling pretty fit and ready for the challenge. Nevertheless, it doesn’t matter how fit you are, you can still get altitude sickness. The only way to prepare yourself for the altitude is to acclimatise. Therefore, we arrived in Chamonix a week before the climb.
The atmosphere in Chamonix in the summer is very different to winter – more relaxed and, of course, warmer. The surroundings, with all the glaciers and high summits, seemed even more magnificent than when blanketed with snow.Sleeping at a high altitude is the best way to acclimatise. Our stay started with the ascent of the Buet, also called Le Mont Blanc des Dames – who says that climbing is not a sexist sport? It was a very enjoyable hike that can be done with just hiking boots – crampons aren’t necessary. On the way, we stayed at the La Pierre à Berard Refuge (a mountain hut for climbers) at 2,000m. We spent another night at The Albert Promier Refuge four days later, and got used to walking with the crampons and using an ice-axe, both of which we be needing during the ascent of Mont Blanc. The rest of the week was spent enjoying the stunning surroundings, drinking coffee on sunny café terraces, eating tasty local treats and relaxing by the swimming pool.
Finally, the long-awaited day arrived. We meet mid-morning with our two guides in Les Houches (each guide can take a maximum of two people for the Mont-Blanc climb). We are climbing Mont Blanc via Le Gouther, the easiest route. After taking the cable car, we catch the ‘train du Mont Blanc’. And than we start walking. Five hours later, after a long, steep climb on a rocky slope, we reach the Refuge du Gouther, at 3,800m. Around 80 other alpinists are staying there for the night, all for the same reason. It is very difficult to sleep – my heart beats very fast because of the altitude but also as a result of the excitement, joy and, no doubt, a bit of fear.At 2.00am the alarm goes off. By 3.00am we start the ascent. The first two hours pass very quickly. It is quite dark, so we don’t look around too much, but just focus on each step, knowing that the summit is a long way away. Greg, our guide, is leading us and makes sure that we keep the right pace. Around 5.00am the sun rises and we discover a new, pristine and untouched world. We can’t stop smiling. I am still feeling absolutely fine, not tired at all, I think I am going to make it to the top.
A bit later, we arrive at the Refuge du Vallot, located at 4,500m. Greg warns us that 4,500m is a crucial height, and that we might start to feel the effect of the altitude even if we have been fine so far. I am just feeling very calm and peaceful, and more determined than ever to get to the top. We can now see it clearly, it seems real, and I know I will be there soon. Four hours after we started, we reach the summit. Unfortunately, the view is somewhat obscured, but as the clouds are moving quickly, we get the view piece-by-piece, like a jigsaw. It is, literally, breathtaking.The way down is extremely long and tiring. Altogether, we have walked 11 hours in one day. However, we are so overwhelmed that it doesn’t matter – and it is motivating to know that a chilled bottle of Champagne is waiting for us.Several months have passed now since the day I stood at the top of Mont Blanc, but thinking about it still brings a huge smile to my face. Achieving the full ascent has given me a strength I can now use in many situations, as well as the pleasure of re-playing it in my memory.
None of us was very experienced, so we all agreed to hire a guide. When we booked the climb with Kailash, a company based in Chamonix, France, one of its staff advised us on how to train efficiently for the ascent. During the last 10 weeks before the climb, the gym became my second home. I did as much cardiovascular exercise as possible, including running, cycling, kick-boxing, spinning and aerobics classes. Most weekends, we went mountain biking in the Surrey hills.By early July, the four of us were feeling pretty fit and ready for the challenge. Nevertheless, it doesn’t matter how fit you are, you can still get altitude sickness. The only way to prepare yourself for the altitude is to acclimatise. Therefore, we arrived in Chamonix a week before the climb.
The atmosphere in Chamonix in the summer is very different to winter – more relaxed and, of course, warmer. The surroundings, with all the glaciers and high summits, seemed even more magnificent than when blanketed with snow.Sleeping at a high altitude is the best way to acclimatise. Our stay started with the ascent of the Buet, also called Le Mont Blanc des Dames – who says that climbing is not a sexist sport? It was a very enjoyable hike that can be done with just hiking boots – crampons aren’t necessary. On the way, we stayed at the La Pierre à Berard Refuge (a mountain hut for climbers) at 2,000m. We spent another night at The Albert Promier Refuge four days later, and got used to walking with the crampons and using an ice-axe, both of which we be needing during the ascent of Mont Blanc. The rest of the week was spent enjoying the stunning surroundings, drinking coffee on sunny café terraces, eating tasty local treats and relaxing by the swimming pool.
Finally, the long-awaited day arrived. We meet mid-morning with our two guides in Les Houches (each guide can take a maximum of two people for the Mont-Blanc climb). We are climbing Mont Blanc via Le Gouther, the easiest route. After taking the cable car, we catch the ‘train du Mont Blanc’. And than we start walking. Five hours later, after a long, steep climb on a rocky slope, we reach the Refuge du Gouther, at 3,800m. Around 80 other alpinists are staying there for the night, all for the same reason. It is very difficult to sleep – my heart beats very fast because of the altitude but also as a result of the excitement, joy and, no doubt, a bit of fear.At 2.00am the alarm goes off. By 3.00am we start the ascent. The first two hours pass very quickly. It is quite dark, so we don’t look around too much, but just focus on each step, knowing that the summit is a long way away. Greg, our guide, is leading us and makes sure that we keep the right pace. Around 5.00am the sun rises and we discover a new, pristine and untouched world. We can’t stop smiling. I am still feeling absolutely fine, not tired at all, I think I am going to make it to the top.
A bit later, we arrive at the Refuge du Vallot, located at 4,500m. Greg warns us that 4,500m is a crucial height, and that we might start to feel the effect of the altitude even if we have been fine so far. I am just feeling very calm and peaceful, and more determined than ever to get to the top. We can now see it clearly, it seems real, and I know I will be there soon. Four hours after we started, we reach the summit. Unfortunately, the view is somewhat obscured, but as the clouds are moving quickly, we get the view piece-by-piece, like a jigsaw. It is, literally, breathtaking.The way down is extremely long and tiring. Altogether, we have walked 11 hours in one day. However, we are so overwhelmed that it doesn’t matter – and it is motivating to know that a chilled bottle of Champagne is waiting for us.Several months have passed now since the day I stood at the top of Mont Blanc, but thinking about it still brings a huge smile to my face. Achieving the full ascent has given me a strength I can now use in many situations, as well as the pleasure of re-playing it in my memory.
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